Hi........We are out of Africa and now in Dubai so here is the last 3 weeks in Africa and our 7th safari...hope we haven't bored you but it has been a diary record for us too as we will never remember the journey we have had.............
Thursday
24th July, 2014……We had a late start from Cape Town this morning as
a bit of a mix up with passengers because we were all coming from different
guest houses……our travelling companions this time, a family of 5 from Luxemburg,
2 Aussie couples and one older Aussie woman (she is a geologist)…….and we have
the same guides which is a bit stressful!!!
However, a beautiful morning as we left Cape Town and sorry to leave…it
really is a great place…..we took the N7 road out of Cape Town, also called the Cape Nambia Route…..as always
on the outskirts of CT, all the shack houses and rows of ‘portaloos’…..and of
courses the government built houses…all in a row and all the same….we are told
these houses they get for free (can’t imagine how long the waiting list
is) and that they pay the monthly power
and water bill…..then a big oil refinery and then a big nuclear power
station….but everything very green as the Western Cape gets the winter
rain…..lots of grape vines, cropping (wheat and canola) and still the big
irrigation systems even though they get the rain…..something we have noted in
the WC province is the picnic areas, lots of them and really nice after the
picnic areas in the EC province which weren’t even an apology for a picnic area!! The N7 road is again a little better than our
Great South Road but certainly not a motorway….eventually we stopped at
Piketberg to stretch our legs and have a coffee….then we started climbing the
mountains…we stopped at 1500 metres to take photos…it was a beautiful day and
very picturesque as we climbed and looking back down into the valleys bursting
with agriculture…..again, a lot of wheat growing….then it was more rocky
mountains and scrub until we turned off onto our usual metal road to give you that
wilderness feeling!! And so we drove through the Cederberg Mountains which was
a great drive as we climbed the mountains on this narrow and windy metal
road…..eventually we stopped and took some photos, so lucky again that the
weather was in our favour…..and then we came to the Cederberg Winery, literally
in the middle of nowhere….and so to our accommodation, cabins about 3 kms from the winery…we didn’t
get here until 2 pm so it was time for lunch and dishes and everyone opted to
do a river walk as there was a small river running through the valley below our
cabins….apparently a very popular place here in the summer…..however Michael
and opted to walk back to the winery…got
there at 4 pm luckily as they were just closing however a husband and wife from
Namibia are the current winemakers there and opted to give us a tasting…it was
so interesting….Cederberg is the highest winery in SA with the vines growing at
1100 meters above sea level……they also have vines growing at the most southerly
point in SA where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet and they blend the grapes
from the 2 different areas to make the wine….we tried 12 wines, wines we have
never heard of before…..we wouldn’t have missed it for anything and we will
probably never go to a winery in such a remote area again……the couple from
Namibia had worked in a winery in Marlborough before taking on this job and he
said they still have Marlborough Sav Blanc sent to them each year for their
personal consumption…....we left the winery at 5.15 pm and did a fast walk back
to our cabin as it gets dark so early but we made it without having to fight
off stray baboons or whatever…..by coincidence I happened to read today that
Pinotage wine is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, we have never heard of the latter, but that
will be something else for us to try, and perhaps explains why we are enjoying
the Pinotage, knowing how much we like our Pinot Noir….
We
have the same guides as our first trip and they cooked hake fish tonight , as
they did for our first night on the road on our last trip…..and it was just as
good…..
And
talking to our guides they told us we drove 4,320 kms on our trip from Joberg
to Cape Town! M & F
Friday
25th July, 2014…….back to our
5 am starts and on the road by 6 am…a long drive today in the truck, 550 kms
and a border to cross…..and today we got
the rain….probably the worst drive we have had to date…we had to take the same
metal road out and it was pretty muddy, with all the rain and you couldn’t see
a thing in the dark and of course all the windows fogged up…..then it was back
on the N7 road but it was mountains, rocky mountains and scrub most of the way
so lucky that it was a very uninteresting landscape as the rain continued…very
barren that part of the WC province…not long after we passed through
Bitterfontein we came into the Northern Cape Province…..and more of the
same….the landscape never changed…..we stopped at a road side picnic area just
outside Springbok and had a bite of lunch and it was freezing cold but we
managed to eat without getting wet!! And
then we came to the Namibia border which was really laid back and we were
through in no time……crossed out of A at Vioolsdrif and into Namibia at
Noordoewer……..we drove for less than an hour in Namibia before reaching our accommodation…..the
Gariep River, also known at the Orange River is the border between SA an
Namibia and our accommodation was on the banks of the river….chalets built of
stone and a picturesque spot with all the mountains around…as soon as we
crossed the river and the border into Namibia the first thing we noticed was
the deterioration in the roads, still sealed but no white lines etc….. the
Orange River runs out to the Atlantic Ocean and it was at Alexandra Bay where
the river meets the Atlantic that De Beers found gold and of course they
control all the gold mining in SA today…..Namibia gets its income from mining,
uranium and diamonds and fishing and tourism……their currency is the Namibia
dollar which is the same value as the SA Rand and they accept the SA Rand so
that is convenient as we haven’t had to have another currency…..Namibia has a
population of 2.5 million people with 13 cultural groups and a land area of
825,418 sq kms….M & F
Saturday
26th July, 2014…..A fine day and a late start…the guides gave us
cooked breakfast this morning in our community kitchen overlooking the Orange
River and the mountains…..just a small settlement in the area where we stayed
last night but as usual all the shacks (local settlements) on the outskirts and
these were real shacks, worse than in SA……and lots of vineyards and vege
growing...just a belt of green each side of the river where everything is
irrigated, the SA side of the river and the Namibian side of the river…..we
stopped a short distance down the road for some photos….so much rock and so
many mountains, lots of slate…….then it was just rock mountains and
scrub...nothing like the desert of Oman at this stage, in Namibia….such a big
land mass but so much desert…..we soon came off the sealed roads but the gravel
roads are good so far….just mountains and mountains and rock but very
picturesque….got to our accommodation about 1 pm as just a short drive today in
sunshine….lunch and then a drive to the Fish River Canyon to explore….our
accommodation is in the Fish Canyon National Park and we are again in the
middle of nowhere as our pics will show……it was about a 45 minute drive back to
the viewing platform for the sunset in the Fish River Canyon National Park……we
had time to walk before sunset so I walked about 2 kms on the rim to the point
where the 5 day hike starts from…..oh boy it looked steep…..Fish River Canyon
is Namibia’s most spectacular geological phenomenon and they say second in
grandeur to the Grand Canyon…..it is
estimated that the rocks at the base of Fish River Canyon are 2000 million
years old….Fish River Canyon lies in the lower reaches of Namibia’s longest
river, the Fish, and it is 167 km long, 27 km wide with a depth of 550 metres….it
is Africa’s biggest canyon and the 2nd largest in the world……M &
F
Sunday
27th July,2014…….Up 4.30 am for a 5.30 am start…..oh boy this is no
holiday!!! But approximately 600 kms today in the truck……left in the dark but a
beautiful sunrise……and today was more Nambian desert….just nothing but rocks
and mountains and scrub and in 500 kms we would have only seen about 20 vehicles…..and we had one horse and
cart……..we have been on gravel roads
most of the day with the odd bit of seal thrown in…..toilet stops were behind
the bushes apart from a fuel stop and then we had a break at Helmeringhausen
where the sign said coffee and the best apple cake in Namibia and it surely
was…..we took a lunch break on the road side at 1.30 and we were all ready for some food having
been on the road since 5.30 am….we drove through another great landscape today
passing through the Tsaris Pass……and so we got to our accommodation about 3.30
pm. In the Namibia Naukluft National
Park which is about 50,000 sq kms,
Namibia’s most versatile
conservation area, the largest conservation area in Namibia and one of the
largest in Africa….we are again in the middle of nowhere…at permanent tented
lodges , Namib Naukluft Lodge….we would have passed no more than 3 road houses
in our entire journey today…this place is really remote…so much land with
nothing happening but very picturesque…there was the odd pocket of 2 or 3
houses but there is just no one for kms….we saw only one game lodge where they
come to shoot the animals…..a few cows when you saw a water hole and there were
a few of them and the stock looked healthy enough but a very hard existence in
this wilderness….they get 200 mils of rain here a year we’re told…….every 7 to
10 years they get big rains……it must
come with a gush as it was incredible on all the gravel roads we were on today
the concrete fords we went over and they cause such a bump when you are going
at speed as we did as there was no water in them….went walking when we got to
our accommodation (Namib Naukluft Lodge)
to stretch our legs after the journey today…..beautiful sunset again tonight
and lovely clear skies….certainly no pollution out here……M & F
Monday 28th July, 2014…..Up at 4.45 am and left at 5.15 am…no breki
as we had to make a real early start this morning…but again a beautiful sunrise
as we drove…….and so we drove further into the Namib Desert which is the oldest
on earth…..the Namib hosts some of the highest accessible dunes in the world….the
towering red sand dune of Sossusvlei form the gateway into the Namib Desert…the
red tints of the sand contrast vividly with the dazzling white surface of the
large clay pans at their bases….and eventually we reached the Sossusvlei area
and stopped at Dune 45 (one dune is 325 meters high) we stopped to climb Dune
45….oh the wind and sand everywhere….….I
started climbing and got behind another guy and stepped in his footsteps which
I learned was the trick on these slippery slopes but then he stopped dead on
me…. I went a bit further but the sand
in my boots not to mention my eyes and trying to cover my ear I decided not to
go to the top and thus retreated….the guides had a cooked breki for us, eating
outside the truck, there was sand going everywhere so most of us retreated into
the truck to eat….then we drove on further to a car parking area where we
transferred into a land rover with open sides and we were driven 5 kms slipping
and sliding through the sand and sometimes hitting our heads on the roof of the
vehicle as we hit pot holes…not far down
the track we came to the first stuck vehicle…people that don’t know how to
drive in sand dunes shouldn’t do it……luckily we had 2 driver/guides in our
vehicle so we pushed the guy out and then one of our drivers took over the
wheel of the other vehicle…then we walked another 1.1 km in the sand…….up and
down the dunes and oh the wind an sand and finally we reached the base of “Dead
Vlei”……..Dead Marsh…..a river once drained into the Dead Vlei nourishing desert
life and even trees…approximately 900 years ago the climate dried up and Dead Vlei was cut off from the river. It became too dry in Dead Vlei for the trees
to decompose and they simply scorched in the black sun……the trees are now over 600
years old and form a barren forest……one can only describe this area as a
photographers dream landscape……towering red dunes on 3 sides surround a flat,
reflective white floor studded with the dark camel-thorn trees…..iron oxide
give the dunes their colour, the more iron oxide in the sand, the redder the
dunes are……and then we walked back to the land rover to be transported back to
the truck…..we drove further in the Namib Desert and then had a picnic lunch
under a tree as we have gone from the cold to the hot weather very quickly and
oh boy the sand……apparently the sand storms start around July but our guides
tell us they have been in much worse than today….all the grass growing in the sand
hills here and so much rock and the colour variations, certainly nothing like
the desert of Oman……and of course here in Namibia we have been back on the African massage roads…..Namibia
is nearly all desert and metal roads and you travel hundreds of kms without seeing a vehicle…..it’s as if
there is nobody here….after lunch we drove to the Sesriem Canyon, a small canyon but very interesting…it was like
we were going down into the churches at Lalibela in Ethiopia as we descended
into the canyon….Sesriem Canyon is where the erosion of many centuries has
incised a narrow gorge about 1 km in length….the Tsauchab River has shaped the
Sesriem Canyon over millions of years…..in 1987 they had a big flood here and
it iss incredible the tree branches that still are wedged high in the cliffs in
the canyon that were washed there during the 1987 flood….. and so it was back
to our lodge where we washed all our clothes, showered, hair wash the lot and luckily at this lodge
the bathroom walls don’t go to the ceiling so it gives for good drying in the
night wind…you can’ leave anything outside because of the baboons…..but just
walking to dinner as we do each evening as the guides always cook in an outside
area, we were all sanded up again!!! M
& F
Tuesday
29th July, 2014…..Up 5 am for a 6 am departure…..more desert roads
in the morning sunrise….rocky mountains,
then rolling grass hills….we stopped for a pic of the landscape and oh
the wind....then flat, flat with mountains on the horizon….stopped for another
pic in this ever changing landscape and to study all the different rocks….then
we drove through another pass, Gaub Pass, then the tropic of Capricorn sign so
of course we all posed for a pic there…..then we were into another flat
landscape they call the Lunar landscape……oh the wind….by now it was really affecting
the visibility on the road and we had a sealed road here with a little more
traffic as we were getting near to Walvis Bay which is where the Namibian Port
is….we did a toilet stop in the desert (they have this long drop toilet with
poorly constructed walls and no door but it is somewhere to go without being
seen)….the sand was really flying around when we stopped for the toilet and oh
boy did our eyes sting when we got back on the truck needless to say we have been
using eye drops most nights…….travelling today we have been down loading photos
from the camera to the lap top and the sand on the lap top screen was
incredible but it reiterated the fact that we too are soaking up as this sand
whilst travelling inside the truck an certainly not good for the camera…..was passed
a big salt mine en route into Walvis Bay…..In Walvis Bay we went an saw the pink flamingos….lots
of them in the bay there and oh some very upmarket houses and no razor wire on
the fences in sight….. the German influence really comes through here in their
architecture ad place names and names in general and apparently lots of Germans live here…Namibia was once a German colony
but of course has independence now….and so we got to Swakopmund and
our accommodation “ Dunedin Star” at around 12 noon and had lunch and
then it was free time…….yeh!!!!!! We went and walked and walked …….along the
beachfront on the Atlantic Ocean and some very upmarket houses here and much more
German architecture and names and you almost have the feel here that you are in
a German town…..went to the local market and as always so many lovely things to
buy but we were fascinated by the Himba women with their bodies all caked in
what looks like brown nugget, almost naked with their naked babies…Michael got
some good pics (unbeknown to them) so
that will explain all………dinner out at a great restaurant on the water…originally
a tug boat turned into a restaurant……M & F
Monday
30th July, 2014…….Swakopmund…….A FREE DAY!!!!!!! We had a late breki
and have been exploring Swakopmund all day…beautiful hot weather still and even
though the desert surrounds us, we seem to be out of the wind here in the
township…..tomorrow its back on the truck……See photo's below. M & F
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The Western Cape area as we left Cape Town....... |
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As above..... |
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As above..... |
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The Cederberg Mountains.... |
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As above...... |
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The road we travelled to our accommodation in the Cederberg Mountains..... |
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As above..... |
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Cederberg Mountains..... |
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Accommodation Cederberg Mountains...... |
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Our house in the Cederberg Mountains..... |
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The road Michael and I walked to the winery....... |
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As per the sign...... |
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The entrance to Cederberg Winery...... the highest winery in SA....... |
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Our hosts, husband and wife from Namibia who are the wine makers @ Cederberg and the line up of what we tasted!!!!
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Cederberg Winery....it sure was remote!!!! |
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As per the sign.... |
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Michael liked this sign...."the land of the brave"....... |
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Our accommodation, Namibia, overlooking the Gariep River which is the boundary between SA and Namibia..... |
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Catching up on the blog outside our house overlooking Gariep River...... |
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Eating/barbecue area, Gariep River, which is typical of the outdoor eating places we have had all through Africa..... |
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The view from our accommodation, early morning, canoeists Gariep River....... |
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As above...... |
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The desert en route to Fish River Canyon..... |
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As above...... |
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As above...... |
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As above...... |
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The local settlements...Namibia..... |
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More of the desert and those lonely roads...... |
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As above..... |
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Can't remember the name of this desert tree but they are everywhere...I think Euphoria tree........ |
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Fish River Canyon...... |
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Springboks...... |
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Our accommodation, in the desert yet again, in the Fish River Canyon area..... |
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As above..... |
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Oryx...... |
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Fish River Canyon.... |
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As above..... |
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As above..... |
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Coffee stop, Namibia..... |
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Namib Desert road....... |
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Truck picnic lunch, Namib Desert...... |
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This is the tree that the giraffes eat and oh those thorns......heaven only knows how they get their tongue around the thorns to eat the leaves!!!! |
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Namib Desert....big Weaver bird nests here....... |
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Namib Desert en route to Sossusvlei...... |
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Our accommodation en route to Sossusvlei....... |
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Big Weaver bird nests again...poor tree!! |
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As per the sign...this was at the entrance to permanent tent accommodation as above..... |
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En route to Dune 45, Sossusvlei....... |
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As above...... |
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Climbing Dune 45 and oh the sand storm.....not really visible in this pic though but it was sand, sand and more sand..... |
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As above...... |
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As above..... |
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As above..... |
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Truck breki in the sand storm at Dune 45...... |
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Dune 45...... |
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Desert toilet at Dune 45....... |
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This is where we went in 4 X 4 vehicle for the 5 kms into Deadvlei...... |
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As above...... |
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Walking the 1.1 km to Deadvlei..... |
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Deadvlei...... |
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As above..... |
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Add caption |
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Sesriem Canyon..... |
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As above..... |
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As per the sign.... |
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Examining the rocks, Namib Desert......... |
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The changing face of the Namib Desert..... |
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En route to the Brandberg Mountains..... |
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Picnic area, Namib Desert..... |
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More desert...... |
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Desert storm en route to Swakopmund.... |
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Himba women....Swakopmund...... |
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As above..... |
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Atlantic Ocean at Swakopmund...... |
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Swakopmund....with the desert at the end of the road...... |
Wow ! That's all I can really say. I fell overwhelmed by all you have seen , experienced. I guess you might be too. Keep safe, glad you are out of Africa . Lv Linda
ReplyDeleteMy goodness not a better word said The land of the brave alright. How are the backsides?
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