Monday, 13 October 2014

Sunday  12th October, 2014……Bonassola……A beautiful morning after the big storm yesterday so we opted to take the train to Santa Margherita and then a bus to Portofino……very interesting train journey going through all the villages on the coast not to mention the tunnels you go through…….we remembered the tunnels from last time when we came from La Spetzia to Bonassola and we went through them all again getting here this time…..the Italians sure know how to build tunnels even if their train timetables are a bit erratic!!!!  And oh the dogs that people take onto the trains here, obviously an accepted thing in this part of the world….the bus journey was shades of the Amalfi Coast in that we had to stop if we met a car on a corner….however the Portofino headland epitomises the Ligurian coastal landscape……about 20 nautical miles separate the headland of Portofino from Punta del Mesco which marks the beginning of the Cinque Terre, the 5 villages known as Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggoire………..Portofino itself is an old sea village with multi coloured houses and a quaint harbour…..being Sunday loads of tourists boats came in so it wasn’t very quaint for long!!!  So many restaurants…we walked and walked, climbed 106 steps and then walked further up a hill to Castello Brown…..originally a fortress used by the Genoese when they ruled these waters…… in 1798 Napoleon renamed Portofino “Port Napoleon” increasing the building works, the number of soldiers and the artillery…..however after Napoleon’s defeat by Horatio Nelson the Corsican’s domains in the Mediterranean Sea suffered sudden downfalls……the Castle fell into disrepair and was abandoned, until the English Consul in Genoa, Montague Yeats Brown fell in love with the place and bought the Castle/Fortress in 1870 from the State…..he employed architects to make it a home, the remains of which is open to the public today….certainly a grand viewing point for looking down into Portofino……..looking at the family photos on the walls, it must have been quite a place and a  very good life they enjoyed here in Portofino………and so we bussed back to Santa Margherita then the train back to Bonassola……a very enjoyable day with a temperature of around 24 degrees…….M & F

Monday 13th October, 2014…….. Bonassola……the weather looks threatening again today but we’ve opted to go and explore some of the 5 villages…..took the train to Riomaggoire……walked and walked…sadly all the tourist walks are closed as the heavy rain last Saturday night did the final damage apparently…they have had a lot of rain here and some of the walks were closed but now all the walks are closed…….we had fine weather in Riomaggoire but the humidity is back….we managed to walk some of the paths around the cliff faces before taking the train to Manarola….the train timetable we have does no read true so a lot of time wasted waiting for trains…..however walked and walked and again managed to walk some of the rock cliff paths…….we stopped for a bite of lunch……I am on nil food today as now I have diarrhoea so a lot of today has been spent looking for toilets, needless to say they are mostly 1 Euro a time!!!!!  Very expensive going to the toilet in Europe these days!!!  A shower of rain came through but it didn’t amount to much and so we went to take the train to Corniglia but got talking to folk on the railway platform and they said they had been advised to get back to their hotel as a category 2 storm is expected to hit so we opted to head back to Bonassola……..just as we got on the train it poured so we were glad we had opted to come back to our hotel but now back in Bonassola the sun is shining!!!!  You just can’t win but hopefully we will get to go to the other 3 villages tomorrow…..we were here in 2005 and had magnificient weather and we looked forward to revisiting the villages…..Bonassola is the 7th village with Levanto being the 6th village but they are all just a few minutes apart….M & F

Portofino.....

As above.....

Local Fishing boats...Portofino......

The view of Portofino from 'Castello Brown'.....

As above.....

Looking up to 'Castello Brown'.......

St Georgio Church ....Portofino......

Looking up to 'Castello Brown'....such a location!!!

The restaurants....Portofino......

The train station going into one of those many tunnels...Riomaggiore.....

Riomaggiore......Cinque Terre....

Manarola....Cinque Terre.....

Saturday, 11 October 2014

Thursday 9th October, 2014…….Venice Island and a hot day again……walked and walked….Venice Island is massive and oh the people….got talking to a couple of Kiwis and they said they had been in Venice before too and like us they can’t get over the crowds in October….we crossed the Grand Canal many times walking to the corners of Venice Island…..and the Grand Canal is such a busy water way as water buses, gondolas, water taxis and working boats all jockey for their piece of water on the Grand Canal……everything is transported by boat,  literally everything….we saw a boat load of beautiful chairs covered with red velvet upholstery being transported with no covers and the salt water was certainly being splashed onto the outside chairs but I guess this is the way it is in Venice…..however we were pleased to see how clean the water of the Grand Canal is……something that did amaze us was the number of mosquitos……we saw more mosquitos in Venice than we did in the whole of Africa….found another little restaurant in another street and watched the world go by then strolled the streets of Venice Island a bit more before retiring…….M & F
Friday 10th October, 2014…….Venice Island and time to leave……but not before paying 9 Euro a night city tax……36 Euros we had to pay for our 4 nights…you pay for your bed and now they sting you for this bed tax as you depart but we’re told this is the way it is so we will have a lot more bed tax to pay in Europe yet….
 And so we caught a water bus to the main Venice train station and again oh the bun fight to get on the water bus and then to get off…you literally have to fight your way through the crowd……Venice station and people everywhere trying to work out how to get wherever…and the stations are coming so much like airline terminals…..the big display boards and you have to work it out for yourself….no such thing as a conductor these days……Prague train station in particular was like an airline terminal…..we had to wait for our train to Florence but there is always something happening where there are people….a piano has been donated to Venice station and a Japanese boy was playing it and he certainly knew how to play the piano….he left to catch his train and then another Japanese boy played and when he left a Japanese girl played…….we were amazed how well these Japanese kids played the piano and we certainly enjoyed the entertainment as did many others……thinking about music reminds of going to breki in our hotel in Prague one morning and they were playing 60’s music in English….Love Letters in the Sand, Oh Diana etc…..very enjoyable but made me feel my age!! And so to Florence where we changed trains to go to La Spezia……all very civilised to here and then we had to get a train from La Spetzia to Bonassola….what chaos, but this is the trains in Italy….got talking to an Oz couple on the train who had lost everything in Rome poor devils so it sounds like Rome will be the place to be most vigilant as it was last time…. finally at 1830 we reached our hotel in Bonassola where we have stayed before…so lovely to be back by the beach and have the sound of the sea…..we went out and purchased our obligatory bottle of wine and sat on our deck, looking out to sea and enjoying a glass of our Valpolicella……..dinner at 1930…this is a family run hotel where they serve dinner, bed and breki……all very relaxing to be back in Bonassola and away from the crowds and in the sea air….
Reflecting on the trains, we have been amazed the times we have stopped on the tracks, obviously to get onto a track after another train has passed through……it seems that the number of trains have increased but the number of train tracks hasn’t…..reminds me of sitting in a plane on a tarmac somewhere in my travels when the pilot announced “Sorry for the delay but we are just waiting for a slot in the air flow”….truly his words……and on this trip Michael and I have often commented on the amount of vapour trails in the sky too……the world is a busy place be it on land, air or water..…..M & F

Saturday 11th October, 2014……Bonassola….A nice morning so had breki up on the terrace this morning, looking out to sea and then we went walking rediscovering this little village we enjoyed in 2005 when we came on a tramping trip here……come afternoon and we got rain, rain and more rain so we had a beer in a beach front cafĂ© and watched the lightning and listened to the thunder…..when it eased we went to the information centre and learned that the week train tickets we had last time only run from Monday to Sunday…how dumb is that, so we have opted to take a trip to Portofino tomorrow and we purchased the Monday to Sunday train ticket which we will use for the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday ….still cheaper than buying individual day tickets……the weather is not looking great but to date we have been so lucky…the humidity here has been dreadful however the rain has cleared the air…..M & F

NZ Shop in Venice.....inside they had picture of the Southern Alps with the caption reading Auckland...and some of the spelling was wrong in the way they spelt Auckland e.g. Auceland and NZ was spelt New Zealanda......all very ineresetng and the shop assistant was so Italian and didn't know 'diddly' squat about NZ and what's more wasn't interested!!!!!

Doges Palace...Venice.....

Gondola congestion!!!!

The Grand Canal with water bus, water taxi, gondola etc......sadly doesn't really reflect the business of the Grand Canal....

Yours truly loaded up....this is definitely my last trip back packing thus the pic!!!!!

Water Bus Station...Venice Island.....

Oh how they load those water buses!!!

Venice Railway Station......

As above......

Breki on the terrace in Bonassola......

As above....

Bonassola....we walked the road above the town......

Cemetery Italian style in Bonassola.....

Bonassola....

Wednesday, 8 October 2014

Sunday 5th October, 2014……Prague……Walked the streets exploring but again a cool day……when we checked out of our hotel the reception lady said why didn’t we get a taxi to the station instead of using the Metro as it was 110 Koruna for a taxi whilst the Metro was 48 Koruna and you had to pay for your  bags…..oh we said, we didn’t know about the bags when we caught the Metro to our hotel but she said we could have been fined and so we opted for a taxi as we are both still struggling with this ‘bot’……
Reflecting on Budapest and Prague we were amazed at the number of restaurants and a lot of the locals seem to eat out…no veiled women in either city…….sadly lots of beggars…..lots of people smoking…..obviously the lung cancer message is not talked about in this part of the world…..lots of derelict buildings in both Hungary and the Czech Republic, no money to do maintenance and no money to pull them down, all a hangover from the communist days….for me the change in Budapest and Prague incredible since I was there in the communist times……on the train journey from Budapest to Prague we passed what looked like acres of discarded army tanks and army trucks just sitting rusting…it was incredible, as far as the eye could see……Prague has many Casinos and they can’t all be for the tourists so we concluded that the Czechs must like gambling!  The handbag and shoe shops in Prague just fabulous, one could really go mad!! I kept mentioning what is known as Budapest’s Champs Eleyses….. the street is actually called Andrassy Avenue…..
And so our train on Sunday to Munich at 1700 arriving Munich 2300….the train was full to start with but people kept getting off and for the final hour Michael and I realised we had the compartment to ourselves…..oh no, people were still getting on so Michael began to sing out loud like a crazy drunk….the first guy that came along opened the compartment door and if one could have captured on film the look on this guy’s face….he thought this guy is mad or drunk and so he went and sat in the corridor…then came another guy so Michael coughed and coughed and this guy didn’t even open the door, he didn’t want our bugs, then came a lady and Michael sang out loud again like a drunk and so she walked on by……a bit naughty of us but it was hilarious needless to say we didn’t get much rest as we couldn’t stop laughing……arriving in Munich Station there were all these people dressed in costumes, Bavarian style but of course Munich is in the middle of October Beer fest……oh boy, was the train full when we left Munich Station at 2300 for our 9 hour journey to Venice……our compartment was full, 6 bodies so no sleep for that 9 hours……the toilet on the train, well I will leave that to your imagination but you can imagine having picked up the drunks from the Beer fest it was pretty bad!!!! About an hour into the journey they announced that they were splitting the train in Salzburg and part of the train was going to Budapest and part of the train to Venice, we just hoped we were on the right bit of the train….but it got better as in the night, one minute I was going backwards and then a little later I would  be going forwards and I hadn’t changed my seat……Michael and I were so confused and amused that it was no wonder we got no sleep…that night we went from the Czech Republic into Germany then into Austria then into Italy…..at one point in the night police got on the train and checked passports but we don’t know what country we were in at the point in time!!!
Monday 6th October, 2014……
Interesting coming into Venice by train though, we’ve been here twice before but always come in by road……we were surprised at the number of vineyards, acres and acres of them…… arrived at Venice Station and the next thing was to find the water buses but first we had to get our train tickets for Friday 10th October to Bonossola…..we stood in the queue for an hour so after that opted for a coffee and sandwich in the station before taking the water bus to our hotel….on the water bus the conductor made me take off my back back…not a problem, but getting off the water bus which was packed with people, what a mission trying to pick up and carry our bags whilst fighting our way through the people to get off the boat……Michael’s directions worked well as once off the water bus we had about a 5 minute walk to our hotel on Venice Island  ………couldn’t get our room until 1400 so off we went exploring the streets even though we were pretty shattered after our night on the train…..found a nice little restaurant to eat at that evening, enjoying some Valpolicella wine with our meal……M & F
Tuesday 7th October, 2014……Venice Island…….Beautiful sunny morning eating breki in the outside courtyard of our hotel……then exploring Venice Island before meeting for our boat tour to the islands of Burano,  Murano and Torcello…….Michael and I had never been to the island of Torcello before but we had both been to the other islands…..we really enjoyed Torcello, a hidden gem and Burano is still pretty special……we had great weather making it a most enjoyable afternoon tour…..we were in San Marco Square at around midday which coincided with high tide….we were here in 2005 and with high tide all that was needed was duck boards to keep your feet try but 9 years later they have these platforms that have legs that are about  60 cms high to keep you out of the water….Venice is surely sinking!!!!  We had to laugh at one restaurant the waiter was wearing gumboots….we noted that the price of a beer in San Marco Square is 12 Euros!!!!!  And guess what, it was mostly Asians sitting there enjoying the view and the music whilst partaking of a beer……lots of Asians here and young Japanese youth (we talked to 3 Japanese youth and they said they were exchange students)….we had an interesting chat with one of the Italian stall holders and he said how so many folk from Bangladesh and India are coming into Italy, being stall holders for a few months, paying no taxes and then taking off…….we have noticed lots of these folk peddling their wares…….Venice has certainly changed in just the 9 years since we were here……found another good restaurant again tonight and enjoyed another bottle of Valpolicella wine with our meal……M & F

Wednesday 8th October, 2014……Venice Island……Lazy morning, cooler today but walked and walked exploring more of Venice Island……oh the people, we would hate to be here in high season….I don’t ever remember this amount of tourists in these places, I must be showing my age……we will find another restaurant tonight and probably more Valpolicella wine as that seems to be our wine of choice here in Venice and oh so many restaurants to choose from……M & F


Wenceslas Square...Prague

As above.....
Venice Island...

San Marco Square....the platoforms at high tide.....

Doges Palace....San Marco Square...Venice.....

The Bridge of Sighs......Venice Island.....

The P & O Cruise Liner, Ventura was in Venice too....... 

Yours truly holding up the leaning tower!!

Two women in training for the Venice Regatta....en route to Torcello Island... if the grass had been higher, it reminded us of the Okavanga Delta in Botswana......

Coming into Torcello Island wharf......a 10 minute walk to the Basilica and village area.....first  inhabitants arrived on Torcello Island  in 5th century......

The Basilica....Torcello Island.....

Restaurant/Bar on Torcello Island with Pomegranate tree in foreground....

Burano Island.....

The leaning Tower on Burano Island...we were told it is leaning 1.8 metres!!

Burano Island....

As above.....

Burano fishermen getting the bait ready to go fishing.....

Burano Island

Police boat and voluntary Ambulance boats and note the locals in conversation on the other side of the water.....

That leaning tower again.....leaving Burano Island.....

Burano Island.....

Loco Boats in Venice....brought back memories of our Loco Boat experience in France......

San Marco Square at night.....

As above.....

The Grand Canal...Venice Island.....

As above......and the restaurant chairs in the waters of the Grand Canal!!!!

Grand Canal... Venice Island......

And we discovered the fruit, vege and fish market.......wonderful fresh produce and cheaper than NZ prices!!

The Grand Canal......

Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal.....

San Marco Square and oh the people!!!!